Creative practice and selected records

1990s

Miyake: Two Making Sequences

Order two original making plans and assign decisions to designer, production system and wearer, distinguishing a shared process from a fixed finished outfit.

Original six-unit strip and two process sequences showing prepared structure, later choices and remaining units.
6
units in the invented strip
2 โ†’ 3
total units selected at each stage

The short answer

When the order of operations changes, so can the person who makes the last decision. Two documented approaches make that question concrete: pleating an assembled garment and selecting pieces from a prepared textile structure.

Process and new decisions

Compare the working decisions

Keep the documented process and the new design choices visible in separate columns.

The new examples are original teaching designs, not reconstructions.
Working questionSelected recordOriginal task
Garment pleatingAssemble before pleatingKeep the stipulated order.
A-POCSelection from a prepared tubeSeparate prepared and open decisions.

Chronology

A timeline of the turning points

  1. Pleats Please

    Garment pleating.

  2. Object record

    Queen Textile.

  3. Studio account

    A-POC project.

Two material sequences

The studio describes cutting and sewing oversized garments before heat-press pleating. This reverses the starting point of making clothes from pre-pleated fabric.

MoMA describes Miyake and Fujiwaraโ€™s A-POC Queen Textile as a continuous tube with garment outlines woven into it. Customers select and cut pieces, with further adjustment possible. The record is dated 1997; the studioโ€™s project account says 1998.

Sources for this section: [1] ยท [2]

A late decision must be prepared early

Leaving a choice to the wearer does not mean abandoning design. The earlier system has to make that later choice possible. A process plan should therefore separate a materialโ€™s prepared structure from the decisions still open when somebody receives it. โ€œCustomisableโ€ is not a complete specification.

This also changes how collaboration is credited. A person who develops a textile structure, someone who prepares the production process and someone who selects a final shape can make different contributions. The label should identify what each contribution changes rather than hiding everyone behind a single signature.

Sources for this section: [1]

Original decision-allocation task

Use a fictional strip containing six selectable units, with no copied garment outlines. A customer wants two units now and may choose another later. Mark which decisions must be settled before manufacture, which can remain open and what information should accompany the strip. Compare that with an invented garment that must be assembled before a finishing operation fixes its shape.

Sources for this section: [1]

Reference answer

The strip plan must define unit boundaries and the conditions under which selecting one leaves the others available. The customer can choose units and timing, but cannot retroactively change the structure already manufactured. Two selected units leave four unselected in this invented model; choosing one more later leaves three.

In the finishing plan, assembly must be completed before the stipulated shape-setting operation. Reversing those steps would be a different process. This answer follows the toyโ€™s stated conditions; it does not promise a working garment, a zero-waste factory or an environmental benefit. A diagram can explain decision order without reproducing a commercial textile design.

Sources for this section: [1]

Continue the chronology

Biography context

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Quick answers

Common questions

Is the strip a garment pattern?
No. Its six units are invented and have no copied clothing outlines.

Primary and institutional sources

How this history was checked

The studio explains garment pleating; MoMA supplies joint designer credits and the A-POC object description. The toy strip is wholly original. This article was reviewed on 31 October 2026.

  1. Miyake Design StudioThe Concepts and Work of Issey Miyake
  2. Museum of Modern Art, object 841.2005.1โ€“4Issey Miyake, Fujiwara Dai: A-POC Queen Textile, 1997
  3. Museum of Modern Art, artist record 21439Issey Miyake